Plant Chat: Chef Ari Taymor of Alma Restaurant

I am so excited to have Ari Taymor, the talented chef of Alma Restaurant, on my blog today! Alma is one of my very favorite restaurants in LA, and I was so happy to talk with the duo behind this inspired restaurant. Ari Taymor and Ashleigh Parsons opened Alma Restaurant in June 2012 on Broadway Avenue in Downtown LA. Inspired by the landscape and terroir of southern California, ingredients on the menu are foraged and harvested from a curated group of local farmers. As with the cuisine, Alma’s beer and wine lists consist of small producers that are farming organically and practicing their craft using traditional methods. Ari and Ashleigh worked at the La Chassagnette restaurant in Arles, France before deciding to open Alma. Ari is a classically trained chef, and Ashleigh hold a Master’s degree in education from Harvard University. Together, they make Alma a unique restaurant, and it’s no surprise that they have been featured in major publications, such as Bon Appetit, and won the Food and Wine Best Chef 2014 award.

I couldn’t wait to ask Ari about his culinary vision, which inspires the amazing cuisine at Alma. And I hope that you join me and fill Alma’s tables every night of the week—we don’t want to lose this culinary treasure!

Can you tell us a bit about your culinary background and philosophy? 

My philosophy is about expressing Southern California as a place both physically as well as culturally. It is about paying attention to the changes in weather and growing conditions, not only from season to season, but from week to week and even day to day. My background began in San Francisco. Inspired by the ability of chefs and restaurants to support local agricultural systems and influence culture, I found myself working for free in a few kitchens. I caught the bug and began cooking around the city at Bar Tartine, Plate Shop, and Flour and Water. I spent a large chunk of time cooking in France at La Chassagnette, made one ill-fated stop in Santa Cruz, and made my way to LA.

What was the journey that brought Alma to LA’s list of most beloved restaurants? 

It wasn’t so much a journey but rather one of daily focus, almost a meditation. All day every day I focused on what I was trying to say, how I wanted to communicate with our guests through our food and service. It became a very insular journey, not looking outside for inspiration but from within. I am not sure we are one of LA’s most beloved restaurants. I think we are an extremely polarizing restaurant. Our supporters are passionate and outspoken, but there are plenty on the other side as well. My focus is about whether we are meeting my expectations, whether we are doing our best to be warm and welcoming in our service, and consistent in the execution of the cooking. The interpretation of that is outside of my control.

I am very interested in plant-centric eating, which I find at Alma. What is your culinary take on having a more plant-focused menu? Is it a fun challenge; are plants a major inspiration? 

I find that I prefer to eat less meat, less dairy. I like to create flavor through fermentations, fresh herbs and citrus. Plants have such a wide array of textures and flavors in their various forms that I think it is an easy canvas to create from.

How are you involved with the sourcing of your ingredients? 

I consider this one of my most important jobs. I am at the farmers market 3-4 times a week. I spend time foraging, speaking with our ranchers and fisherman. I hand pick almost every piece of produce that goes on the plate at Alma. It makes me feel connected each time a dish goes out.

Tell us a bit about your current concerns about saving Alma, and what can we do to help? 

Basically, small business is simply not valued in our current economic environment. Everything from taxes, to procedural red tape, to interactions with regulatory agencies are set up to push around those smaller than them. The margins on any kind of food business are tight, but the margins on those pursuing ethical labor and food policies are even tighter. The best way to help Alma is to come in and eat. To let us cook for you and welcome you into what is basically our home, and share our story. The more of you all we can see every night, the happier we are!