Plant-Based Eating in Belize

Sharon Palmer RD

Published on June 25, 2013

I already miss Belize and I’ve only been back for a day. Ten days in this unconventional tropical paradise were not enough. Even my two teenage sons miss it. Is it the friendly charm of the people, the warm balmy winds, the clear turquoise water, the untouched jungles brimming with life, or the vibrant Caribbean food that I miss the most? Heck, it’s all of those things. I’ve never been anywhere so off the beaten track; so jungly and overgrown and wild; so simply unaware of the modern world as I was deep in Belize—almost to the Guatemala border. It’s a wonderful thing to go somewhere where people have such few concerns in life—shelter, food, family. And the food is a big part of what I love about this region in Central America.

Belize is a unique combination of cultures smashing together, with ancient Mayans who form a core of this region—Belize is home to many ancient Mayan sites that are only recently being excavated. I saw some of these sites, with volunteers discovering a new passage to a temple where they found ancient clay pots leading them to believe this was an ancient sort of pantry for the temple inhabitants. The Spanish explorers made their way to Belize in the 1500s, although they were not welcomed warmly. Next came the Brits and the pirates, as they sailed over the blue Caribbean sea to this paradise for its bounty of precious woods, such as mahogany. The British colonists brought in African slaves, which added another key feature that stands today: a vibrant Creole element among the inhabitants. While these two groups form the main population of Belize, others have come, including Asians and even Menonites.

I don’t think you could ever starve in Belize—the land is so rich and fertile it’s almost obscene. A constant supply of rain keeps the soil rich and moist; tropical fruit trees grow in prolific jungles; and the seas are alive with abundant sea life. To the south, Belize has plentiful farms, with rice, beans, and vegetables growing. In addition, coffee is grown in the mountains and don’t forget that this is home to the ancient Mayan cocoa plants. An amazing array of stunning wildlife thrives in this small country, from tapirs (the cow-meets pig-meets anteater animal) and monkeys to panthers, crocodiles and toucans. Such beauty is a treat, and fortunately ecotourism caught on early in Belize—national preserves cover the country.

And I haven’t even started talking about the sea, dotted with islands that boast dreamy coconut trees, white sand beaches, and colorful huts. The Belize barrier reef makes this area one of the prized snorkeling and scuba diving regions of the world—this is home to the Blue Hole, the diving site made famous by Jacques Cousteau. The waters are like an aquarium, with fish of every color swimming about you, and nurse sharks, sting rays and manitees in the waters, too.

Let’s get back to the food. I found it flavorful, clean and delicious. As a plant-powered eater, I fared well. The original food traditions are based on beans, rice, local fruits (banana, coconut, mango, pineapple, citrus, watermelon, papaya) and vegetables (squash, pumpkin, onions, peppers, garlic, cabbage, tomatoes, cucumbers, carrots, avocados, corn), and fish. The towns boast small produce stands where you can buy such foods, which I took advantage of to whip up lunch in my resort room equipped with a kitchen. In addition, shops sell baked goods, such as banana bread and pan dulce. Dairy products were at a minimum; cows are not plentiful and dairy products can’t withstand the warm, humid climate, we were told. The Creole and Mayan cultures bring lots of flavor with them, including the liberal use of curry, spices, herbs, habanero peppers, garlic, and coconut. These elements surround you; I spied peppers growing on bushes, coconuts all over the landscape, and trees that you read about in botanical books. This is where exotic spices like allspice come from (I picked an allspice leaf from a tree and it’s lovely scent lingered for hours). The locals pick leaves, sticks, fruits, and bark from plants every day as natural remedies for every day ailments, as well as flavor for foods. I loved the fact that the traditional Belizean cuisine focused on all of these local flavors. A traditional meal would be some sort of locally caught fish (grouper or snapper), coleslaw, and beans and rice—all prepared with great flavor.

With the advent of tourism, food traditions have changed. We enjoyed gorgeous, beachside restaurants helmed by good chefs that reminded you of establishments in Los Angeles or Chicago. At these restaurants, chefs were doing exciting things shaping local cuisine with modern touches—such as my tofu coconut vegetable curry with rice. Unfortunately, some negative touches flourished, such as the supermarkets stocked with nothing but American imported foods, including canned vegetables, coffee, frozen foods, fresh produce (apples, raspberries!), snack foods, cookies, breakfast cereals, and baked goods. I wasn’t able to determine if this is a nod to American tourists visiting the country, or if this is truly a change in food culture. Every supermarket we visited featured 90% imported American foods, with labels you might find in any store in the U.S. However, the fresh produce stands, bakeries, and fishmongers sold local goods.

The food was wholesome and simple and clean—I didn’t have a single tummy rumble during my stay. I felt sustained and healthy during my visit, eating lots of salads, beans, rice, and fruits every day. It gave me energy to hike, snorkel, and ride bikes on the beach. The foods are a natural expression of the people and the country—let’s hope those traditions stay in tact for a long time to come.

Ambergris Caye, Belize